Friday 27 August 2010

Question & Answers - 27th August 2010

I recently put a post in regards to shooting on a website.  From this, someone sent me some questions and I thought that I would put them and the answers here.
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1. Is one anchor point better than another, i.e. I draw to my chin whereas many pictures on the web show archers drawing to the corner of their mouths - should I be doing that too?
There are better anchor points than others in my limited experience.  A good anchor point provides as many possible reference points to the shooter and in addition to this, must provide good biomechanical alignment to maximise draw length while making it easily shootable.


For me, my anchor point of choice gives me contact on the nose, down the nasal cartilage, along my face and chin, so that my hand is firmly embedded into the bone of my jaw.  In addition, my hand position is such so that my pinky is able to touch my neck at anchor.  This position for me sets my draw arm in a good alignment position, and allows me to use scapula movement to rotate my arm around and bring my arrow through the clicker.  Copy-cat behaviour should not be conducted if you don't understand why they are doing it, otherwise you don't actually gain the benfits.


2. How long do you hold steady once you acquired the target before you release? I tend to release immediately once it's on the spot but this doesn't seem to give me consistent results.
In Kyuudou, they should hold for a minimum of seven seconds before their release.  Thankfully, we do not do Kyuudou as modern archery.  According to studies in rifle shooting, if you hold your breath for longer than about 6 seconds, your eyes will start to defocus unconsciously.  While this is related to 3. , this means you really should not hold for more than 6 seconds.


The appropriate hold time is dependant upon the conditions and your skill.  Holding is actually an incorrect phrase, it really is a transfer, from the draw to anchor, to pulling through the clicker (if you use one) since your movement should not actually 100% stop, but rather, slow down.


To further explain this, as I understand it, and try, is that when you draw the bow, you are already in the process of "aiming" on the target.  Once you set to anchor, you should be about 75% aimed, and then it is just fine movement to ensure you are where you want to be.  While this fine adjustment happens, you continually pull, until it goes through the clicker.  If you are where you want to be, release, if not, let down, start again.  It's not a easy process, but rather a good process to ensure you can draw through the clicker smoothly and consistently.


An instant release is pretty poor in consistency if you do not manage to settle your anchor, ie, if body parts are still moving.  You should attempt to bring your body to a slow stop as part of the draw, instead of a sudden "haul" of the string to your anchor quickly, as it causing a lot of body movement compared to a slower steady draw to anchor.
3. What about breathing? Are you supposed to release at the bottom of your breath after exhaling (which is what you do in pistol shooting) or...? I have read several archery books and not one of them addressed this!?
Breathing is an important cycle.  One thing to consider is that, inhalation and exhalation to the extremes require muscle activation to hold.  A half breath situation is less strenuous than extremes, and also provides more oxygen to your body to burn during the holding of the breath.

My coach taught me this cycle, and I have found it to be pretty good, and I try to continue using this.

I) When you are ready to draw, and your foundations are set (stance, head position, arrow on string, bow in hand, fingers on string), exhale fully.  Then lift the bow.
II)  As you draw the bow to anchor, inhale.
III) At anchor as you reach it, exhale half breath.  This then leaves you with oxygen to spare, and a relaxed mid-state of muscle in the thorax.
IV) Draw through and shoot.

Give it a try is all I can really say.  Breathing is important, and keeping a regular cycle is important and helps in maintaining your rhythm when shooting.

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So, I hope that these opinions of mine are helpful to anyone who might have similar questions, and while they have worked for me, there is no guarentee that they will work for you, so just keep that in mind.

Happy Shooting.

Tuesday 17 August 2010

Tuesday 17th August 2010

@ St Pauls

Nice clear day, no wind.  Bright.

I shot a practice FITA today after really not shooting properly for a while.  I'm not entirely sure why I did it, but I think it was because the weather was so nice and there was no wind.  It's been a while since I shot one in proper order.  The last time I shot one was in 2007.  I did shoot a FITA out of order last year with a 1136 though but it wasn't in order so not a fantastic comparison.

Today, I had two warmup ends at 90m, and off I went.

90m: 29 19 23 27 30 20 = 148, Av = 24.6 Rating 53
70m: 35 43 41 52 52 45 = 268, Av = 44.6 Rating 69
50m: 38 50 34 46 45 47 = 260, Av = 43.3 Rating 67
30m: 56 57 56 54 52 52 = 327, Av = 54.5 Rating 75
Total: 1003 Rating 63, Av Rating = 66, would have been a 1032.

I'm pretty happy with the result, I had hoped for a 1000+, and sneaking in that 1003 was pretty good.  I definitely need a lot more work at 90m as usual to bring things back up, could easily get 100 points in 90m alone with some solid work there.

In terms of shooting, 70m was actually super comfortable.  50m I struggled and at 30m I was extremely tired since this was the most I had shot in one day in a very long time.  What made 50m a struggle was using the open sight ring with no dot.  It was harder than 90m in the sense that 90m is always hard for me and so I was not too worried about the aim aspect, but 50m, I've been able to do okay.  Looking at it, all in all though, my 50m score was close to my 70m, which is actually pretty normal in itself.  Can't complain really.

Not sure where I'll work on next though.